Thursday (7th November) – we turn north from Thame and head north, towards Tibet. Our destination is Lumde (4380m). Immediately we are in ‘wild’ country. Isllated villages and few trekkers. The journey is slow but focused. There is no point in going too fast, this will only bring on headaches and lethargy. All of us have headaches of one degree or another. The acid cold air is playing havoc with our sinuses. We are entering into an unknown land – at least for Jon, Richard and Andrew. Already the predictable dinner menu holds no interest. Somehow our appetites are absent without leave. And yet we must eat. This is our only hope to combat altitude sickness and to give us the energy we need fir the next, important, stage of our trek – to cross the Rengo la Pass (5360m).