Nepal Mountaineering Information

NEPAL MOUNTAINEERING INFORMATION

Nepal is a country gifted with some of the highest peaks in the world, including the top-most peak, Mt. Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest, 8848 m.). It is hardly surprising that Nepal has been the stage for some of the most outstanding achievements in the world of mountaineering. The diverse topography and the resulting climatic conditions offer the most spectacular trekking routes in the world.

When Nepal was the opened up to foreigners, a vast array of new challenges presented themselves to adventures climbers.  Over the following 30 years, however, what began as near free access to the mountains, including Everest. The sacred Machhapuchhare, gradually become restricted to a few named expedition peaks. These mountains required a hefty peak fee and liaison officer in addition to unusually onerous bureaucracy and months of pre-planning.

In 1998 a further 9 peaks were designated as trekking peaks by the Ministry of Tourism. Separately from the NMA’s list. Controversially, some of these ‘new’ peaks were simply low hills like Gokyo Ri and Yala. Later on NMA issued 33 trekking peak and expedition peak through Department of Tourism

 

• Climbing Permit

The trekking peaks attract a fee, which has to be paid in addition to any fee for the trek approaching the mountain. The fees and the lists of peaks have been under review in recent years and the situation look as if it will continue to be fluid. If you intend to climb any trekking peaks, check the current lists and fees before departing from home.

All the Expedition peak permit through the department of Tourism, and trekking perk permit through Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)

 

• Climbing Style

Although there are straightforward routes on many of these peaks, they certainly should not be underestimated. Several have no easy way up them. The routes selected for this volume are generally the easier ones, mostly around Alpine grade PD, with two Ads and a couple of Fs. All require the use of rope, axe and crampons; and ice screws, snow stakes and often a small selection of nuts and pegs may be useful.

Many of the climbs cross seriously crevassed ground and should not be attempted without a firm grounding in the fundamentals of glacier rope-work and crevasse rescue.

 

• Grading

Himalayan climbing do not easily fit in to normal degrading systems because the major difficulties are often not so much technical as those associated with acclimatization. High altitude and/or large verticals (the difference in height between base camp and the summit).

 

 PEAK OPEN FOR MOUNTAINEERING

The government of Nepal has divided peak in to three categories they are as Peaks opened for foreign expeditions.  Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions and Foreign expeditions only when they have been climbed by Nepalese and foreign joint expedition.

 

S.N	Name	Elevation  (M)	Elevation (Ft.)	Location
Peaks Opened For Foreign Expeditions
1	Ama Dablam	6812 M	22,349.08	Sagarmatha
2	Annapurna I	8091 M	26,545.28	Gandaki
3	Annapurna II	7937 M	26,040.03	Gandaki
4	Annapurna III	7555 M	24,786.75	Gandaki
5	Annapurna IV	7525 M	24,688.32	Gandaki
6	Annapurna South	7219 M	23,684.38	Gandaki
7	Api Himal	7132 M	23,398.95	Mahakali
8	Api West	7100 M	23,293.96	Darchula
9	Barun Tse	7129 M	23,389.11	Kashi
10	Baudha	6672 M	21,889.76	Gankdaki
11	Chamlang	7319 M	24,012.47	Sagarmatha Barun
12	Cheo Himal	6820 M	22,375.33	Gandaki
13	Chobuje	6685 M	21,932.42	Janakpur
14	Cholatse	6440 M	21,128.61	Sagarmatha
15	Cho-Oyu	8201 M	26,906.17	Sagarmatha
16	Cho Polu	6711 M	22,017.72	Sagarmatha
17	Churen	7371 M	24,183.07	Dhaulagiri
18	Dhampus	6012 M	19,724.41	Dhaulagiri
19	Dhaulagiri I	8167 M	26,794.62	Dhaulagiri
20	Dhaulagiri II	7751 M	25,429.79	Dhaulagari
21	Dhaulagiri III	7715 M	25,311.68	Dhaulagiri
22	Dhaulagiri IV	7661 M	25,134.52	Dhaulagiri
23	Drangang Ri	6801 M	22,312.99	Janakpur
24	Dhaulagiri V	7618 M	24,993.44	Dhaulagiri
25	Dhaulagiri IV	7268 M	23,845.15	Dhaulagiri
26	Fimkot West	6645 M	21,801.18	Bajhang
27	Fimkot	6697 M	21,971.79	Bajhang Humla
28	Ganesh IV (Pabil)	7052 M	23,136.48	Bagmati
29	Ganesh II	7111 M	23,330.05	Bagmati
30	Ganesh III (Salasungo)	7110 M	23,326.77	Bagmati
31	Ganesh V	6986 M	22,919.95	Bagmati
32	Gangapurna	7455 M	24,458.66	Bagmati
33	Gauri Shanker	7134 M	23,405.51	Janakpur
34	Gimigela Chuli	7350 M	24,114.17	Mechi
35	Gyajikang	7038 M	23,090.55	Gandaki
36	Himachuli E	7893 M	25,895.67	Gandaki
37	Himchuli N.	7371 M	24,183.07	Gandaki
38	Himchuli West	7540 M	24,737.53	Gandaki
39	Himlung Himal	7126 M	23,379.27	Gandaki
40	Hongde	6556 M	21,509.19	Karnali
41	Jagdula Peak	5763 M	18,907.48	Karnali
42	Kumbhakarna (Jannu)	7710 M	25,295.28	Mechi
43	Kangbachen	7903 M	25,928.48	Mechi
44	Kagmara	5960 M	19,553.81	Karnali
45	Kande Hiunchuli	6627 M	21,742.13	Karnali
46	Kanchenjunga (Main)	8586 M	28,169.29	Mechi
47	Kanchenjunga	8476 M	27,808.40	Mechi
48	Kanchenjunga(South)	8476 M	27,808.40	Mechi
49	Kang Guru	6981 M	22,903.54	Gandaki
50	Kangtega(Kantega)	6779 M	22,240.81	Sagarmatha
51	Kanjeralwa	6612 M	21,692.91	Karnali
52	Kanijiroba (Main Peak)	6838 M	22,434.38	Karnali
53	Khatang	6782 M	22,250.66	Janakpur
54	Lamjung Himal	6918 M	22,696.85	Gandaki
55	Langsisa Ri	6427 M	21,085.96	Bagmati
56	Langtang Lirung	7234 M	23,733.60	Bagmati
57	Lhotse	8516 M	27,939.63	Sagarmatha
58	Lhotse Shar	8400 M	27,559.06	Sagarmatha
59	Lobuje West	6145 M	20,160.76	Sagarmatha
60	Lemgpa Peak	6954 M	22,814.96	Mechi
61	Makalu I	8463 M	27,765.75	Koshi
62	Makalu II (Kangchugtse)	7678 M	25,190.29	Koshi
63	Manapathi	6380 M	20,931.76	Dhaulagiri
64	Manaslu	8163 M	26,781.50	Gandaki
65	Manaslu North	7157 M	23,480.97	Gandaki
66	Nampa	6755 M	22,162.07	Mahakali
67	Ngojumbakang	7743 M	25,403.54	Sagarmatha
68	Nilgiri Central	6940 M	22,769.03	Dhaulagiri
69	Nilgiri North	7061 M	23,166.01	Dhaulagiri
70	Nilgiri South	6839 M	22,437.66	Dhaulagiri
71	Numbur	6957 M	22,824.80	Sagarmatha
72	Nuptse	7855 M	25,771.00	Sagarmatha
73	Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29 Dakura)	7871 M	25,823.49	Gandaki
74	Nampa South	6580 M	21,587.93	Darchula/Bajhang
75	Patrasi	6450 M	21,161.42	6450 Karnali
76	Pumori	7161 M	23,494.10	Sagarmatha
77	Putha Hiunchuli	7246 M	23,772.97	Dhaulagiri
78	Pathivara Chuli	7125 M	23,375.99	Mechi
79	Pasang Lhamuh (Chuli Jasamba)	7351 M	24,117.45	Sagarmatha
80	Raksha Urai	6593 M	21,630.58	Bajhang
81	Saipal	7031 M	23,067.59	Mahakali
82	Shantishikhar	7591 M	24,904.86	Sagarmatha/Khumbu
83	Shartse	7459 M	24,471.79	Sagarmatha
84	Sisne	5849 M	19,189.63	Karnali
85	Sita Chuchura	6611 M	21,689.63	Dhaulagiri
86	Saipal East	6882 M	22,578.74	Bajhang
87	Surma-Sarovar North	6523 M	21,400.92	Bajhang
88	Sagarmatha	8848 M	29,028.87	Sagarmatha
89	Shey Shikhar	6139 M	20,141.08	Karnali
90	Tawache	6501 M	21,328.74	Sagarmatha
91	Thamserku	6623 M	21,729.00	Sagarmatha
92	Tilicho Peak	7134 M	23,405.51	Gandaki
93	Tukuche Peak	6920 M	22,703.41	Dhaulagir
94	Tripura Hiunchuli	6563 M	21,532.15	Karnali
95	Tso Karpo	6518 M	21,384.52	Dolpa
96	Tarke Kang	7193 M	23,599.08	Gandaki
97	Varaha Shikhar (Fang)	7647 M	25,088.58	Dhaulagiri
98	Yalung Kang	8505 M	27,903.54	Mechi
Join Nepalese And Foreign Expeditions
99	Bobaye	6808 M	22,335.96	Mahakali
100	Ganesh (Yangra)	7429 M	24,373.36	Bagmati
101	Jethi Bahurani	6850 M	22,473.75	Mahakali
102	Khang Sar Kang	7485 M	24,557.09	Gandaki
103	Hrikuti	6364 M	20,879.27	Dhaulagiri
104	Bhemdang Ri	6150 M	20,177.17	Bagmati
105	Bhairab Takura (Madiya Peak)	6799 M	22,306.43	Bagmati
106	Chamar	7187 M	23,579.40	Gandaki
107	Changla	6563 M	21,532.15	Karnali
108	Dorje Lhakpa	6966 M	22,854.33	Bagmati
109	Ganchenpo	6387 M	20,954.73	Bagmati
110	Gandharava	6248 M	20,498.69	Gandaki
111	Gurja Himal	7193 M	23,599.08	Dhaulagiri
112	Ri Gurkarpa	6891 M	22,608.27	Bagmati
113	Kang Gyachung	7952 M	26,089.24	Sagarmatha
114	Gyalzen Peak	6151 M	20,180.45	Bagmati
115	Jongsang Peak	7483 M	24,550.53	Mechi
116	Karyolung	6511 M	21,361.55	Sagarmatha
117	Kirat Chuli(Tent Peak)	7365 M	24,163.39	Bagmati
118	Langtang Ri	7205 M	23,638.45	Bagmati
119	Leonpa Gang (Big White Peak)	6979 M	22,896.98	Bagmati
120	Nala Kankar	6062 M	19,888.45	Karnali
121	Nepal Peak	6910 M	22,670.60	Mechi
122	Ohmi Kanga	6829 M	22,404.86	Mechi
123	Phurbi Chyachu	6631 M	21,755.25	Bagmati
124	Urknmang	6151 M	20,180.45	Bagmati
Foreign Expeditions Only When They Have Been Climbed By Nepalese And Foreign Joint Expedition
121	Bobaye	6808 M	22,335.96	Mahakali
122	Ganesh (Yangra)	7429 M	24,373.36	Bagmati
123	Jethi Bahurani	6850 M	22,473.75	Mahakali
124	Khang Sar Kang	7485 M	24,557.09	Gandaki

 

Nepal Mountaineering Information

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING FEE STRUCTURE

Mountain climbing fees issued by Department of Tourism- Nepal

Mountaineering Royalty for Foreign Climber per Person

S.N	Mountain	Spring Season	Autumn Season	Winter/ Summer
01	Everest Normal Route	$ 11000	$ 5500	$ 2750
02	Everest Others Route	$ 10000	$ 5000	$ 2500
03	Others Mountain More Than 8000 M	$ 1800	$ 900	$ 450
04	7501 M. To 7999 M.	$ 600	$ 300	$ 150
05	7000 M. To 7500 M.	$ 500	$ 250	$ 125
06	6501 M. To 6999 M.	$ 400	$ 200	$ 100
07	Mt. Amadablam (6812 M)	$ 400	$ 400	$ 200
08	Less The 6500	$ 250	$ 125	$ 70

 

NMA CLIMBING PEAK AND PERMIT FEES

Nepal Mountaineering Association was established on 1 November 1973. It is the only national alpine club authorized to issue climbing permits for 33 mountain peaks of Nepal. The fees for the trekking peaks on the NMA categories as Group “A “and Group “B” permits

The name of peak, elevation and cost are following table.

 

NMA Peaks – Group “B”			Spring		Autumn		Winter		Summer
SN	Name Of The Peak	Region	Height↓	March-April-May		Sept-Oct-Nov		Dec-Jan-Feb		June-July-August
01	Hiunchuli	Annapurna Himal	6434 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
02	Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak)	Annapurna Himal	6501 M	USD 400		USD 200		USD 100		USD 100
03	Mera Peak	Khumbu Himal	6470m	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
04	Kusum Kangru	Khumbu Himal	6360 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
05	Kwangde	Khumbu Himal	6086 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
06	Chulu West	Manang District	6419 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
07	Chulu East	Manang District	6584 M	USD 400		USD 200		USD 100		USD 100
08	Imja Tse (Island Peak)	Khumbu Himal	6165 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
09	Pharchamo	Rolwaling Himal	6279 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
10	Lobuje	Khumbu Himal	6090 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
11	Ramdung	Rolwaling Himal	5900 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
12	Pisang Peak	Manang District	6091 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
13	Khongma Tse (Mehra Peak)	Khumbu Himal	5849 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
14	Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga)	Langtang Himal	5863 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
15	Paldor Peak	Langtang Himal	5903 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70

 

NMA Peaks – Group “A”			Spring		Autumn		Winter		Summer
SN	Name Of The Peak	Region	Height↓	March-April-May		Sept-Oct-Nov		Dec-Jan-Feb		June-July-August
01	Mt Cholatse	Khumbu	6423 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
02	Mt. Kyazo Ri	Mahalangur	6151 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
03	Mt.Phari Lapcha	Mahalangur	6017 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
04	Mt. Nirekha	Mahalangur	6159 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
05	Mt. Langsisa Ri	Jugal	6412 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
06	Mt. Ombigaichen	Mahalangur	6340 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
07	Mt. Bokta	Kanchenjunga	6114 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
08	Mt. Chekigo	Gaurishankar	6121 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
09	Mt. Lobuje West	Khumbu	6135 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
10	Mt. Larkya Peak	Manaslu	6416 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
11	Mt. ABI	Mahalangur	6043 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70
12	Mt. Yubra Himal	Langtang Himal	6048 M	USD 250		USD 125		USD 70		USD 70

 

# Garbage Deposit and Refund Policy

Amount to be deposited for Garbage Management, trekking peak garbage issued by NMA. Expedition peak garbage issued by Department of Tourism.

 

• The Mountaineering expedition team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:

(a) For the following mountains of the Khumbu and Annapurna Himalayan range

 

For The Mount Everest	Four Thousand U.S. Dollar Or Equivalent To That In Nepalese Rupees.
For The Other Mountain Having The Height Of Above 8001 Meter Except Mount Everest	Three Thousand U.S.
For The Mountain Having The Height Of 7001  To 8000 Meter And Amadablam Mountain	Two Thousand U.S.
For The Mountain Having The Height Of 6501 To 7000 Meter	One Thousand U.S.
For The Mountain Having The Height Of Less Than 6500 Meter	Five Hundred U.S.

 

(b) For the following mountains of the other Himalayan range other than expressed in clause (a).

For The Other Mountain Having The Height Of More Than  8000 Meter	Three Thousand U.S. Dollars Or Equivalent To That In Nepalese Rupees
For The Mountain Having The   Height Of Less Than  8000 Meter	Five Hundred U.S. Dollars Or Equivalent To That In Nepalese Rupees.

 

• The trekking peak climbing team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:

As like expedition peak, trekking peak garbage deposit to acquire climbing permit will be same. For example: US$ 500.00.