# Nepal Mountaineering Information

Nepal is a country gifted with some of the highest peaks in the world, including the top-most peak, Mt. Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest, 8848m.). It is hardly surprising that Nepal has been the stage for some of the most outstanding achievements in the world of mountaineering. The diverse topography and the resulting climatic conditions offer the most spectacular trekking routes in the world.

Several attempts to climb the world’s highest mountain, Everest, were made in the 1920s and 30s form the Tibetan side of the Himalaya. When Nepal was the opened up to foreigners, a vast array of new challenges presented themselves to adventures climbers.  Over the following 30 years, however, what began as near free access to the mountains, including Everest and the sacred Machhapuchhare, gradually become restricted to a few named expedition peaks. These mountains required a hefty peak fee and liaison officer in addition to unusually onerous bureaucracy and months of pre-planning.

In 1978, under the control to the newly formed Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), 18 mountains between 5587m and 6654m were opened to foreigners without the restrictions of the expedition peaks. The bureaucracy was streamlined, a permit could be obtained from the NMA with the minimum of fuss after arriving in Nepal and a liaison officer was not required. This list of 18 formed the so-called “trekking Peak” to distinguish them from the major “expedition peaks”.

In 1998 a further 9 peaks were designated as trekking peaks by the Ministry of Tourism, separately from the NMA’s list. Controversially, some of these ‘new’ peaks were simply low hills like Gokyo Ri and Yala which, until then, had been freely climbed and considered to be ‘outside the system. Later on NMA issued 33 trekking peak and expedition peak through Department of Tourism

  • Climbing Permit

The trekking peaks attract a fee, which has to be paid in addition to any fee for the trek approaching the mountain. The fees and the lists of peaks have been under review in recent years and the situation look as if it will continue to be fluid. If you intend to climb any trekking peaks, check the current lists and fees before departing from home.

All the Expedition peak permit through the department of Tourism, and trekking perk permit through Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)

  • Climbing Style

Although there are straightforward routes on many of these peaks, they certainly should not be underestimated. Several have no easy way up them. The routes selected for this volume are generally the easier ones, mostly around Alpine grade PD, with two Ads and a couple of Fs. All require the use of rope, axe and crampons; and ice screws, snow stakes and often a small selection of nuts and pegs may be useful. Many of the climbs cross seriously crevassed ground and should not be attempted without a firm grounding in the fundamentals of glacier rope-work and crevasse rescue.

Most of the additional climbing equipment needed for trekking peaks can be hired or purchased in Kathmandu, and often sold back again if necessary.

  • Grading

Himalayan climbing do not easily fit in to normal degrading systems because the major difficulties are often not so much technical as those associated with acclimatization. High altitude and/or large verticals (the difference in height between base camp and the summit).

# Peak open for Mountaineering

The government of Nepal has divided peak in to three categories they are as Peaks opened for foreign expeditions, Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions and Foreign expeditions only when they have been climbed by Nepalese and foreign joint expedition.

 

S.N Name Elevation  (M) Elevation (Ft.) Location
Peaks opened for foreign expeditions
1 Ama Dablam 6812m          22,349.08 Sagarmatha
2 Annapurna I 8091m          26,545.28 Gandaki
3 Annapurna II 7937 m          26,040.03 Gandaki
4 Annapurna III 7555 m          24,786.75 Gandaki
5 Annapurna IV 7525 m          24,688.32 Gandaki
6 Annapurna South 7219 m          23,684.38 Gandaki
7 Api Himal 7132 m          23,398.95 Mahakali
8 Api West 7100 m          23,293.96 Darchula
9 Barun Tse 7129 m          23,389.11 Kashi
10 Baudha 6672 m          21,889.76 Gankdaki
11 Chamlang 7319 m          24,012.47 Sagarmatha Barun
12 Cheo Himal 6820 m          22,375.33 Gandaki
13 Chobuje 6685 m          21,932.42 Janakpur
14 Cholatse 6440 m          21,128.61 Sagarmatha
15 Cho-oyu 8201 m          26,906.17 Sagarmatha
16 Cho polu 6711 m          22,017.72 Sagarmatha
17 Churen 7371 m          24,183.07 Dhaulagiri
18 Dhampus 6012 m          19,724.41 Dhaulagiri
19 Dhaulagiri I 8167 m          26,794.62 Dhaulagiri
20 Dhaulagiri II 7751 m          25,429.79 Dhaulagari
21 Dhaulagiri III 7715m          25,311.68 Dhaulagiri
22 Dhaulagiri IV 7661 m          25,134.52 Dhaulagiri
23 Drangang Ri 6801 m          22,312.99 Janakpur
24 Dhaulagiri V 7618 m          24,993.44 Dhaulagiri
25 Dhaulagiri IV 7268 m          23,845.15 Dhaulagiri
26 Fimkot West 6645 m          21,801.18 Bajhang
27 Fimkot 6697 m          21,971.79 Bajhang Humla
28 Ganesh IV (Pabil) 7052 m          23,136.48 Bagmati
29 Ganesh II 7111 m          23,330.05 Bagmati
30 Ganesh III (Salasungo) 7110 m          23,326.77 Bagmati
31 Ganesh V 6986 m          22,919.95 Bagmati
32 Gangapurna 7455 m          24,458.66 Bagmati
33 Gauri Shanker 7134 m          23,405.51 Janakpur
34 Gimigela Chuli 7350 m          24,114.17 Mechi
35 Gyajikang 7038 m          23,090.55 Gandaki
36 Himachuli E 7893 m          25,895.67 Gandaki
37 Himchuli N. 7371 m          24,183.07 Gandaki
38 Himchuli West 7540 m          24,737.53 Gandaki
39 Himlung Himal 7126 m          23,379.27 Gandaki
40 Hongde 6556 m          21,509.19 Karnali
41 Jagdula Peak 5763 m          18,907.48 Karnali
42 Kumbhakarna (Jannu) 7710 m          25,295.28 Mechi
43 Kangbachen 7903m          25,928.48 Mechi
44 Kagmara 5960 m          19,553.81 Karnali
45 Kande Hiunchuli 6627 m          21,742.13 Karnali
46 Kanchenjunga (Main) 8586 m          28,169.29 Mechi
47 Kanchenjunga 8476 m          27,808.40 Mechi
48 Kanchenjunga(South) 8476 m          27,808.40 Mechi
49 Kang Guru 6981 m          22,903.54 Gandaki
50 Kangtega(Kantega) 6779 m          22,240.81 Sagarmatha
51 Kanjeralwa 6612 m          21,692.91 Karnali
52 Kanijiroba (Main Peak) 6838 m          22,434.38 Karnali
53 Khatang 6782 m          22,250.66 Janakpur
54 Lamjung Himal 6918 m          22,696.85 Gandaki
55 Langsisa Ri 6427 m          21,085.96 Bagmati
56 Langtang Lirung 7234 m          23,733.60 Bagmati
57 Lhotse 8516 m          27,939.63 Sagarmatha
58 Lhotse Shar 8400 m          27,559.06 Sagarmatha
59 Lobuje West 6145 m          20,160.76 Sagarmatha
60 Lemgpa Peak 6954 m          22,814.96 Mechi
61 Makalu I 8463 m          27,765.75 Koshi
62 Makalu II (Kangchugtse) 7678 m          25,190.29 Koshi
63 Manapathi 6380 m          20,931.76 Dhaulagiri
64 Manaslu 8163 m          26,781.50 Gandaki
65 Manaslu North 7157 m          23,480.97 Gandaki
66 Nampa 6755 m          22,162.07 Mahakali
67 Ngojumbakang 7743 m          25,403.54 Sagarmatha
68 Nilgiri Central 6940 m          22,769.03 Dhaulagiri
69 Nilgiri North 7061 m          23,166.01 Dhaulagiri
70 Nilgiri South 6839 m          22,437.66 Dhaulagiri
71 Numbur 6957 m          22,824.80 Sagarmatha
72 Nuptse 7855 m          25,771.00 Sagarmatha
73 Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29 Dakura) 7871 m          25,823.49 Gandaki
74 Nampa South 6580 m          21,587.93 Darchula/Bajhang
75 Patrasi 6450 m          21,161.42 6450 Karnali
76 Pumori 7161m          23,494.10 Sagarmatha
77 Putha Hiunchuli 7246 m          23,772.97 Dhaulagiri
78 Pathivara Chuli 7125 m          23,375.99 Mechi
79 Pasang Lhamuh (Chuli Jasamba) 7351 m          24,117.45 Sagarmatha
80 Raksha Urai 6593 m          21,630.58 Bajhang
81 Saipal 7031 m          23,067.59 Mahakali
82 Shantishikhar 7591 m          24,904.86 Sagarmatha/Khumbu
83 Shartse 7459 m          24,471.79 Sagarmatha
84 Sisne 5849 m          19,189.63 Karnali
85 Sita Chuchura 6611 m          21,689.63 Dhaulagiri
86 Saipal East 6882 m          22,578.74 Bajhang
87 Surma-Sarovar North 6523 m          21,400.92 Bajhang
88 Sagarmatha 8848 m          29,028.87 Sagarmatha
89 Shey Shikhar 6139 m          20,141.08 Karnali
90 Tawache 6501 m          21,328.74 Sagarmatha
91 Thamserku 6623 m          21,729.00 Sagarmatha
92 Tilicho peak 7134 m          23,405.51 Gandaki
93 Tukuche Peak 6920 m          22,703.41 Dhaulagir
94 Tripura Hiunchuli 6563 m          21,532.15 Karnali
95 Tso Karpo 6518 m          21,384.52 Dolpa
96 Tarke Kang 7193 m          23,599.08 Gandaki
97 Varaha Shikhar (Fang) 7647 m          25,088.58 Dhaulagiri
98 Yalung Kang 8505 m          27,903.54 Mechi
Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions
99 Bobaye 6808 m          22,335.96 Mahakali
100 Ganesh (Yangra) 7429 m          24,373.36 Bagmati
101 Jethi Bahurani 6850 m          22,473.75 Mahakali
102 Khang Sar Kang 7485 m          24,557.09 Gandaki
103 Hrikuti 6364m          20,879.27 Dhaulagiri
104 Bhemdang Ri 6150m          20,177.17 Bagmati
105 Bhairab Takura (Madiya Peak) 6799m          22,306.43 Bagmati
106 Chamar 7187m          23,579.40 Gandaki
107 Changla 6563m          21,532.15 Karnali
108 Dorje Lhakpa 6966m          22,854.33 Bagmati
109 Ganchenpo 6387 m          20,954.73 Bagmati
110 Gandharava 6248 m          20,498.69 Gandaki
111 Gurja Himal 7193 m          23,599.08 Dhaulagiri
112 Ri Gurkarpa 6891 m          22,608.27 Bagmati
113 Kang Gyachung 7952m          26,089.24 Sagarmatha
114 Gyalzen Peak 6151 m          20,180.45 Bagmati
115 Jongsang Peak 7483 m          24,550.53 Mechi
116 Karyolung 6511 m          21,361.55 Sagarmatha
117 Kirat Chuli(Tent Peak) 7365 m          24,163.39 Bagmati
118 Langtang Ri 7205 m          23,638.45 Bagmati
119 Leonpa Gang (Big White Peak) 6979 m          22,896.98 Bagmati
120 Nala Kankar 6062 m          19,888.45 Karnali
121 Nepal Peak 6910 m          22,670.60 Mechi
122 Ohmi Kanga 6829 m          22,404.86 Mechi
123 Phurbi Chyachu 6631 m          21,755.25 Bagmati
124 Urknmang 6151 m          20,180.45 Bagmati
Foreign expeditions only when they have been climbed by Nepalese and foreign joint expedition
121 Bobaye 6808 m          22,335.96 Mahakali
122 Ganesh (Yangra) 7429 m          24,373.36 Bagmati
123 Jethi Bahurani 6850 m          22,473.75 Mahakali
124 Khang Sar Kang 7485 m          24,557.09 Gandaki

 

# Mountain Climbing Fee Structure

Mountain climbing fees issued by Department of Tourism- Nepal

Mountaineering Royalty for Foreign Climber per Person

S.N Mountain Spring Season Autumn Season Winter/ Summer
01 Everest Normal Route $ 11000 $ 5500 $ 2750
02 Everest Others Route $ 10000 $ 5000 $ 2500
03 Others Mountain more than 8000 m $ 1800 $ 900 $ 450
04 7501 m. to 7999 m. $ 600 $ 300 $ 150
05 7000 m. to 7500 m. $ 500 $ 250 $ 125
06 6501 m. to 6999 m. $ 400 $ 200 $ 100
07 Mt. Amadablam (6812 m) $ 400 $ 400 $ 200
08 Less the 6500 $ 250 $ 125 $ 70

 

# NMA Climbing Peak and Permit Fees

Nepal Mountaineering Association was established on 1 November 1973. It is the only national alpine club authorized to issue climbing permits for 33 mountain peaks of Nepal. The fees for the trekking peaks on the NMA categories as Group “A “and Group “B” permits

The name of peak, elevation and cost are following table.

 

NMA Peaks – Group “B” Spring Autumn Winter Summer
SN Name of the peak Region Height↓ March-April-May Sept-Oct-Nov Dec-Jan-Feb June-July-August
01 Hiunchuli Annapurna Himal 6434m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
02 Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) Annapurna Himal 6501m USD400 USD 200 USD 100 USD 100
03 Mera Peak Khumbu Himal 6470m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
04 Kusum Kangru Khumbu Himal 6360m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
05 Kwangde Khumbu Himal 6086m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
06 Chulu West Manang district 6419m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
07 Chulu East Manang district 6584m USD400 USD200 USD100 USD100
08 Imja Tse (Island Peak) Khumbu Himal 6165m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
09 Pharchamo Rolwaling Himal 6279m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
10 Lobuje Khumbu Himal 6090m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
11 Ramdung Rolwaling Himal 5900m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
12 Pisang Peak Manang district 6091m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
13 Khongma Tse (Mehra Peak) Khumbu Himal 5849m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
14 Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga) Langtang Himal 5863m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
15 Paldor Peak Langtang Himal 5903m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70

 

NMA Peaks – Group “A” Spring Autumn Winter Summer
SN Name of the peak Region Height↓ March-April-May Sept-Oct-Nov Dec-Jan-Feb June-July-August
01 Mt Cholatse Khumbu 6423m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
02 Mt. Kyazo Ri Mahalangur 6151m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
03 Mt.Phari Lapcha Mahalangur 6017m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
04 Mt. Nirekha Mahalangur 6159m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
05 Mt. Langsisa Ri Jugal 6412m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
06 Mt. Ombigaichen Mahalangur 6340m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
07 Mt. Bokta Kanchenjunga 6114m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
08 Mt. Chekigo Gaurishankar 6121m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
09 Mt. Lobuje West Khumbu 6135m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
10 Mt. Larkya Peak Manaslu 6416m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
11 Mt. ABI Mahalangur 6043m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70
12 Mt. Yubra Himal Langtang Himal 6048m USD250 USD125 USD70 USD70

 

# Garbage Deposit and Refund Policy

Amount to be deposited for Garbage Management, trekking peak garbage issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and expedition peak garbage issued by Department of Tourism.

 

  • The Mountaineering expedition team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:
  1. For the following mountains of the Khumbu and Annapurna Himalayan range

 

For the Mount Everest Four thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.
For the other mountain having the height of above 8001 meter except Mount Everest Three thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of 7001  to 8000 meter and Amadablam mountain Two thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of 6501 to 7000 meter One thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of less than 6500 meter Five hundred U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees

 

(b) For the following mountains of the other Himalayan range other than expressed in clause (a).

For the other mountain having the height of more than  8000 meter Three thousand U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the

height of less than  8000 meter

Five hundred U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.

 

  • The trekking peak climbing team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:

As like expedition peak, trekking peak garbage deposit to acquire climbing permit will be same

For example: US$ 500.00. The refund shall be made as per the provisions of NMA