Nepal Mountaineering Information

Nepal Mountaineering Information

Nepal is a country gifted with some of the highest peaks in the world, including the top-most peak, Mt. Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest, 8848 m.). It is hardly surprising that Nepal has been the stage for some of the most outstanding achievements in the world of mountaineering. The diverse topography and the resulting climatic conditions offer the most spectacular trekking routes in the world.

When Nepal was the opened up to foreigners, a vast array of new challenges presented themselves to adventures climbers.  Over the following 30 years, however, what began as near free access to the mountains, including Everest. The sacred Machhapuchhare, gradually become restricted to a few named expedition peaks. These mountains required a hefty peak fee and liaison officer in addition to unusually onerous bureaucracy and months of pre-planning.

In 1998 a further 9 peaks were designated as trekking peaks by the Ministry of Tourism. Separately from the NMA’s list. Controversially, some of these ‘new’ peaks were simply low hills like Gokyo Ri and Yala. Later on NMA issued 33 trekking peak and expedition peak through Department of Tourism

 

  • Climbing Permit

The trekking peaks attract a fee, which has to be paid in addition to any fee for the trek approaching the mountain. The fees and the lists of peaks have been under review in recent years and the situation look as if it will continue to be fluid. If you intend to climb any trekking peaks, check the current lists and fees before departing from home.

All the Expedition peak permit through the department of Tourism, and trekking perk permit through Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)

 

  • Climbing Style

Although there are straightforward routes on many of these peaks, they certainly should not be underestimated. Several have no easy way up them. The routes selected for this volume are generally the easier ones, mostly around Alpine grade PD, with two Ads and a couple of Fs. All require the use of rope, axe and crampons; and ice screws, snow stakes and often a small selection of nuts and pegs may be useful.

Many of the climbs cross seriously crevassed ground and should not be attempted without a firm grounding in the fundamentals of glacier rope-work and crevasse rescue.

 

  • Grading

Himalayan climbing do not easily fit in to normal degrading systems because the major difficulties are often not so much technical as those associated with acclimatization. High altitude and/or large verticals (the difference in height between base camp and the summit).

 

 Peak open for Mountaineering

The government of Nepal has divided peak in to three categories they are as Peaks opened for foreign expeditions.  Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions and Foreign expeditions only when they have been climbed by Nepalese and foreign joint expedition.

 

S.NName Elevation  (M)Elevation (Ft.)Location
Peaks opened for foreign expeditions
1Ama Dablam6812 m          22,349.08 Sagarmatha
2Annapurna I8091 m          26,545.28 Gandaki
3Annapurna II7937 m          26,040.03 Gandaki
4Annapurna III7555 m          24,786.75 Gandaki
5Annapurna IV7525 m          24,688.32 Gandaki
6Annapurna South7219 m          23,684.38 Gandaki
7Api Himal7132 m          23,398.95 Mahakali
8Api West7100 m          23,293.96 Darchula
9Barun Tse7129 m          23,389.11 Kashi
10Baudha6672 m          21,889.76 Gankdaki
11Chamlang7319 m          24,012.47 Sagarmatha Barun
12Cheo Himal6820 m          22,375.33 Gandaki
13Chobuje6685 m          21,932.42 Janakpur
14Cholatse6440 m          21,128.61 Sagarmatha
15Cho-oyu8201 m          26,906.17 Sagarmatha
16Cho polu6711 m          22,017.72 Sagarmatha
17Churen7371 m          24,183.07 Dhaulagiri
18Dhampus6012 m          19,724.41 Dhaulagiri
19Dhaulagiri I8167 m          26,794.62 Dhaulagiri
20Dhaulagiri II7751 m          25,429.79 Dhaulagari
21Dhaulagiri III7715 m          25,311.68 Dhaulagiri
22Dhaulagiri IV7661 m          25,134.52 Dhaulagiri
23Drangang Ri6801 m          22,312.99 Janakpur
24Dhaulagiri V7618 m          24,993.44 Dhaulagiri
25Dhaulagiri IV7268 m          23,845.15 Dhaulagiri
26Fimkot West6645 m          21,801.18 Bajhang
27Fimkot6697 m          21,971.79 Bajhang Humla
28Ganesh IV (Pabil)7052 m          23,136.48 Bagmati
29Ganesh II7111 m          23,330.05 Bagmati
30Ganesh III (Salasungo)7110 m          23,326.77 Bagmati
31Ganesh V6986 m          22,919.95 Bagmati
32Gangapurna7455 m          24,458.66 Bagmati
33Gauri Shanker7134 m          23,405.51 Janakpur
34Gimigela Chuli7350 m          24,114.17 Mechi
35Gyajikang7038 m          23,090.55 Gandaki
36Himachuli E7893 m          25,895.67 Gandaki
37Himchuli N.7371 m          24,183.07 Gandaki
38Himchuli West7540 m          24,737.53 Gandaki
39Himlung Himal7126 m          23,379.27 Gandaki
40Hongde6556 m          21,509.19 Karnali
41Jagdula Peak5763 m          18,907.48 Karnali
42Kumbhakarna (Jannu)7710 m          25,295.28 Mechi
43Kangbachen7903 m          25,928.48 Mechi
44Kagmara5960 m          19,553.81 Karnali
45Kande Hiunchuli6627 m          21,742.13 Karnali
46Kanchenjunga (Main)8586 m          28,169.29 Mechi
47Kanchenjunga8476 m          27,808.40 Mechi
48Kanchenjunga(South)8476 m          27,808.40 Mechi
49Kang Guru6981 m          22,903.54 Gandaki
50Kangtega(Kantega)6779 m          22,240.81 Sagarmatha
51Kanjeralwa6612 m          21,692.91 Karnali
52Kanijiroba (Main Peak)6838 m          22,434.38 Karnali
53Khatang6782 m          22,250.66 Janakpur
54Lamjung Himal6918 m          22,696.85 Gandaki
55Langsisa Ri6427 m          21,085.96 Bagmati
56Langtang Lirung7234 m          23,733.60 Bagmati
57Lhotse8516 m          27,939.63 Sagarmatha
58Lhotse Shar8400 m          27,559.06 Sagarmatha
59Lobuje West6145 m          20,160.76 Sagarmatha
60Lemgpa Peak6954 m          22,814.96 Mechi
61Makalu I8463 m          27,765.75 Koshi
62Makalu II (Kangchugtse)7678 m          25,190.29 Koshi
63Manapathi6380 m          20,931.76 Dhaulagiri
64Manaslu8163 m          26,781.50 Gandaki
65Manaslu North7157 m          23,480.97 Gandaki
66Nampa6755 m          22,162.07 Mahakali
67Ngojumbakang7743 m          25,403.54 Sagarmatha
68Nilgiri Central6940 m          22,769.03 Dhaulagiri
69Nilgiri North7061 m          23,166.01 Dhaulagiri
70Nilgiri South6839 m          22,437.66 Dhaulagiri
71Numbur6957 m          22,824.80 Sagarmatha
72Nuptse7855 m          25,771.00 Sagarmatha
73Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29 Dakura)7871 m          25,823.49 Gandaki
74Nampa South6580 m          21,587.93 Darchula/Bajhang
75Patrasi6450 m          21,161.42 6450 Karnali
76Pumori7161 m          23,494.10 Sagarmatha
77Putha Hiunchuli7246 m          23,772.97 Dhaulagiri
78Pathivara Chuli7125 m          23,375.99 Mechi
79Pasang Lhamuh (Chuli Jasamba)7351 m          24,117.45 Sagarmatha
80Raksha Urai6593 m          21,630.58 Bajhang
81Saipal7031 m          23,067.59 Mahakali
82Shantishikhar7591 m          24,904.86 Sagarmatha/Khumbu
83Shartse7459 m          24,471.79 Sagarmatha
84Sisne5849 m          19,189.63 Karnali
85Sita Chuchura6611 m          21,689.63 Dhaulagiri
86Saipal East6882 m          22,578.74 Bajhang
87Surma-Sarovar North6523 m          21,400.92 Bajhang
88Sagarmatha8848 m          29,028.87 Sagarmatha
89Shey Shikhar6139 m          20,141.08 Karnali
90Tawache6501 m          21,328.74 Sagarmatha
91Thamserku6623 m          21,729.00 Sagarmatha
92Tilicho peak7134 m          23,405.51 Gandaki
93Tukuche Peak6920 m          22,703.41 Dhaulagir
94Tripura Hiunchuli6563 m          21,532.15 Karnali
95Tso Karpo6518 m          21,384.52 Dolpa
96Tarke Kang7193 m          23,599.08 Gandaki
97Varaha Shikhar (Fang)7647 m          25,088.58 Dhaulagiri
98Yalung Kang8505 m          27,903.54 Mechi
Join Nepalese and foreign Expeditions
99Bobaye6808 m          22,335.96 Mahakali
100Ganesh (Yangra)7429 m          24,373.36 Bagmati
101Jethi Bahurani6850 m          22,473.75 Mahakali
102Khang Sar Kang7485 m          24,557.09 Gandaki
103Hrikuti6364 m          20,879.27 Dhaulagiri
104Bhemdang Ri6150 m          20,177.17 Bagmati
105Bhairab Takura (Madiya Peak)6799 m          22,306.43 Bagmati
106Chamar7187 m          23,579.40 Gandaki
107Changla6563 m          21,532.15 Karnali
108Dorje Lhakpa6966 m          22,854.33 Bagmati
109Ganchenpo6387 m          20,954.73 Bagmati
110Gandharava6248 m          20,498.69 Gandaki
111Gurja Himal7193 m          23,599.08 Dhaulagiri
112Ri Gurkarpa6891 m          22,608.27 Bagmati
113Kang Gyachung7952 m          26,089.24 Sagarmatha
114Gyalzen Peak6151 m          20,180.45 Bagmati
115Jongsang Peak7483 m          24,550.53 Mechi
116Karyolung6511 m          21,361.55 Sagarmatha
117Kirat Chuli(Tent Peak)7365 m          24,163.39 Bagmati
118Langtang Ri7205 m          23,638.45 Bagmati
119Leonpa Gang (Big White Peak)6979 m          22,896.98 Bagmati
120Nala Kankar6062 m          19,888.45 Karnali
121Nepal Peak6910 m          22,670.60 Mechi
122Ohmi Kanga6829 m          22,404.86 Mechi
123Phurbi Chyachu6631 m          21,755.25 Bagmati
124Urknmang6151 m          20,180.45 Bagmati
Foreign expeditions only when they have been climbed by Nepalese and foreign joint expedition
121Bobaye6808 m          22,335.96 Mahakali
122Ganesh (Yangra)7429 m          24,373.36 Bagmati
123Jethi Bahurani6850 m          22,473.75 Mahakali
124Khang Sar Kang7485 m          24,557.09Gandaki

 

Nepal Mountaineering Information

Mountain Climbing Fee Structure

Mountain climbing fees issued by Department of Tourism- Nepal

Mountaineering Royalty for Foreign Climber per Person

S.NMountainSpring SeasonAutumn SeasonWinter/ Summer
01Everest Normal Route$ 11000$ 5500$ 2750
02Everest Others Route$ 10000$ 5000$ 2500
03Others Mountain more than 8000 m$ 1800$ 900$ 450
047501 m. to 7999 m.$ 600$ 300$ 150
057000 m. to 7500 m.$ 500$ 250$ 125
066501 m. to 6999 m.$ 400$ 200$ 100
07Mt. Amadablam (6812 m)$ 400$ 400$ 200
08Less the 6500$ 250$ 125$ 70

 

NMA Climbing Peak and Permit Fees

Nepal Mountaineering Association was established on 1 November 1973. It is the only national alpine club authorized to issue climbing permits for 33 mountain peaks of Nepal. The fees for the trekking peaks on the NMA categories as Group “A “and Group “B” permits

The name of peak, elevation and cost are following table.

 

NMA Peaks – Group “B”SpringAutumnWinterSummer
SNName of the peakRegionHeight↓March-April-MaySept-Oct-NovDec-Jan-FebJune-July-August
01HiunchuliAnnapurna Himal6434 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
02Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak)Annapurna Himal6501 mUSD 400USD 200USD 100USD 100
03Mera PeakKhumbu Himal6470mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
04Kusum KangruKhumbu Himal6360 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
05KwangdeKhumbu Himal6086 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
06Chulu WestManang district6419 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
07Chulu EastManang district6584 mUSD 400USD 200USD 100USD 100
08Imja Tse (Island Peak)Khumbu Himal6165 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
09PharchamoRolwaling Himal6279 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
10LobujeKhumbu Himal6090 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
11RamdungRolwaling Himal5900 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
12Pisang PeakManang district6091 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
13Khongma Tse (Mehra Peak)Khumbu Himal5849 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
14Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga)Langtang Himal5863 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
15Paldor PeakLangtang Himal5903 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70

 

NMA Peaks – Group “A”SpringAutumnWinterSummer
SNName of the peakRegionHeight↓March-April-MaySept-Oct-NovDec-Jan-FebJune-July-August
01Mt CholatseKhumbu6423 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
02Mt. Kyazo RiMahalangur6151 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
03Mt.Phari LapchaMahalangur6017 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
04Mt. NirekhaMahalangur6159 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
05Mt. Langsisa RiJugal6412 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
06Mt. OmbigaichenMahalangur6340 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
07Mt. BoktaKanchenjunga6114 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
08Mt. ChekigoGaurishankar6121 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
09Mt. Lobuje WestKhumbu6135 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
10Mt. Larkya PeakManaslu6416 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
11Mt. ABIMahalangur6043 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70
12Mt. Yubra HimalLangtang Himal6048 mUSD 250USD 125USD 70USD 70

 

# Garbage Deposit and Refund Policy

Amount to be deposited for Garbage Management, trekking peak garbage issued by NMA. Expedition peak garbage issued by Department of Tourism.

 

  • The Mountaineering expedition team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:

(a) For the following mountains of the Khumbu and Annapurna Himalayan range

 

For the Mount EverestFour thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.
For the other mountain having the height of above 8001 meter except Mount EverestThree thousand U.S. 
For the mountain having the height of 7001  to 8000 meter and Amadablam mountainTwo thousand U.S. 
For the mountain having the height of 6501 to 7000 meterOne thousand U.S. 
For the mountain having the height of less than 6500 meterFive hundred U.S. 

 

(b) For the following mountains of the other Himalayan range other than expressed in clause (a).

For the other mountain having the height of more than  8000 meterThree thousand U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the

height of less than  8000 meter

Five hundred U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.

 

  • The trekking peak climbing team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management:

As like expedition peak, trekking peak garbage deposit to acquire climbing permit will be same. For example: US$ 500.00.

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